Zanzabarian Reflections

 

The name Zanzibar itself is cool. It's appeared a Springsteen song. Likewise Billy Joel. It is in the lyrics of the Patty Duke Show opening theme song. Gave its name to the famous ZanziBar. Not to mention their Zanzibarmaids. There's carpets that come from there; Zanziberber. It's a great place for a haircut, obviously. Good venue if you're 13, Jewish, and looking for the coolest destination Zanzibar Mitzvah ever! And if you need a gym, it's easy to get in. They all have Zanzibarbellls.

The place has some incredible history. The island is one of the world's leading producers of cloves. The person in charge of sales and marketing of the spice is a direct descendant of Henry VIII, Anne of Cloves. How much cloves, is used on a per capita basis, likely falls somewhere between left handed buggy whips and Brylcreem. And speaking of 'a little dab', despite its name, Stone Town, the island's capital city, is about as dry as Montreal used to be in June. No product around. When I asked to buy papers, they pointed me in the direction of a shop selling The Tanzania Daily News.When I asked about head shops, I was advised that prostitution is illegal in Zanzibar. Stone Town was the sight of the shortest war in history - 38 minutes. They should try imposing that time limit on all current and future conflagrations. 

As a major crossroads of the old Spice Route, the island has seen its share of invasions, cultural takeovers, slavery (both selling and being), religious impacts, natural storms, with each one leaving a layer of its particular patina on the country's walls. Literally and figuratively. 

As is the case with every other country that Lori and I have visited on this continent, infrastructure such as paved roads, potholes in the few existing paved roads, dependable electricity, etc., has been eschewed in favour of a new private jet or Paris condo for some top official here.

To the Contrary!!!

At the conclusion of our first trip to Africa with our boys back about 20 years ago, I wrote up a piece in which I provided five reasons why Africa may not be able to develop in a positive fashion. Tribalism was one, corruption, migration to the cities, AIDS, and global warming were the others that put up a daunting challenge.

Two decades later some modifications to those variables may be in place; however, my overriding sense of hopelessness remains much the same.

HOUDE

 AIDS is less of an issue now; Tribalism seems to be reducing. 

Replacement #1: Universal internet access to information which might as well be coming from another planet. 

Replacement #2: And now, introducing - The Chinese!!

We are aware of Chinese growth and ambition as exemplified by its Road and Belt Initiative. But to see the scope of Chinese globalization up close and personal is quite impactful. China is not alone in implicating themselves into all societal aspects of Zanzibar. There are first class hotels the size of which rivals Texas ranches. Owned by Spaniards. 

There is one of the coolest restaurants you will ever see (sea?). Owned by Italians. 

The aforementioned foreign investors have found a legitimate way to monetize a situation. Build a hotel, rent it out to foreigners, make a buck. No problem. The difference in that approach to Chinese intentions is virtually unmeasurable. 

Long Game. Is that a strategy or a name? Because this is China's M.O. We've seen their tentacles in the Amazon, in Viet Nam, and other spots. 

Phase One

It starts with a few gifts.

 "We'll build you a sports stadium, you can name it after your President. In fact, we will complete construction and hold the ribbon cutting ceremony one week prior to your national election. That should help him get re-elected".

Now that we are besties, it's time to implement:

Phase Two

 "Y'know, you're electrical grid is looking a bit tired. How about we lend you the money (at just below usury levels) to rebuild it. And we will provide the engineering, the material, the construction, manpower, all elements - Won Ton Soup to Nuts.  Oh, and just sign us this paper providing us with perpetual rights to everything that we can mine, pump from the ground, harvest, cut down, take from the sea, etc., etc. Let's just say 'All Resources' for simplicity's sake."

Phase Three

"While we thank you thus far for your cooperation, now that electricity is working, we can take more stuff from you faster. Let's fix your roads, 

build you a highway system and while we are at it, we will throw in a deep water port at 50% off."

So now we have a full colonial based, resource-moving infrastructure in place. With the host country so deeply in debt and now lacking the signed away resources that they once would have used to pay off what is owed. 

Phase Four

Political influencing in Zanzibar has been in the program for over 100 years now. Now the investments are starting to bear fruit. With financial hegemony resulting from the unavoidable default on the Chinese loans comes increased political influence that will not be going away any time soon. Multiply this by every other country facing the same pressures and you are witnessing the changing of the global guard. Other continents may have a better chance of defeating/delaying  the onslaught. Africa, is likely to fold fast.